|
Bordeaux-Style Blends Carneros
(Napa)
Bordeaux winemakers have long known that cabernet sauvignon
makes a better wine when it is the main component in a
blending formula that incorporates other grape varieties to
round out and refine the varietal's naturally forceful
tannins and flavors.
The other Bordeaux varieties -- merlot, cabernet franc,
petit verdot and malbec -- also provide extra layers of
flavor and complexity in the finished wine, which eventually
becomes a product that is greater than the mere sum of its
parts.
Brute Strength Yields to Finesse
The Bordeaux approach didn't really catch on in California
until the 1980s, after a decade of huge, rich, tannic, 100
percent varietal Cabs that often exhibited more oak than
fruit. Eventually, consumers and winemakers agreed that
finesse, depth, complexity and balance were more desirable
than brute strength.
Today, it's a common practice for winemakers to add some
merlot or cabernet franc, or both, to cabernet sauvignon.
And when the winery wants to make a first-class merlot,
cabernet sauvignon and/or cabernet franc will be blended in.
So long as the other varieties constitute no more than 25
percent of the resulting wine, it can be labeled varietally
as cabernet sauvignon or merlot, as the case may be.
But what happens when the winemaker determines that cabernet
sauvignon shouldn't constitute at least 75 percent of the
blend -- that a better wine can be made with, say, just 45
percent cabernet sauvignon blended with 35 percent merlot,
12 percent cabernet franc and eight percent petit verdot?
The answer is that the winemaker adjusts the blending
formula to achieve the desired result, and then sits down
with the marketing people to figure out what to call the
wine. This wouldn't be a problem in Bordeaux, where the wine
is given the name of the estate (or chateau, in French) that
produced it. For example, the blending formula set forth
above is that of Chateau Pichon Lalande, and that's all the
label says.
The Meritage Concept
The California winery has several alternatives for naming
its blend. If the wine is made only from traditional
Bordeaux grape varieties, is the winery's best red wine and
is limited in production to no more than 25,000 cases, it
can be called "Meritage," a coined word that is pronounced
like heritage. Meritage wines are the equivalent of
Bordeaux-style red and white wines, both in terms of grape
varieties and quality. The topic of white proprietary
meritage blends was discussed in an earlier "Vintner's
Choice" column.
On the other hand, even if the wine could be called Meritage,
the winery is free to label it under a proprietary name that
legally may be used only by the particular winery, such as "Hommage"
from Clos Pegase or Joseph Phelps' "Insignia." Similarly,
the proprietary term may be the name of the estate as is
done in Bordeaux, such as "Opus One," "Dominus," "Royale" (a
new Kendall-Jackson property which uses both "Royale" and "Meritage"
on the label) or "Pahlmeyer." This marketing device is the
most popular choice among wineries, and there are dozens of
these exotically named wines on the market.
Another alternative is to call the wine "Claret," which is
an old British term that means the same thing as red
Bordeaux blend. This is what White Rock Vineyards in the
Napa Valley calls its Meritage red, which sells for about
$25. On a less inventive level, there's always "Red Table
Wine."
The winery can also employ a non-proprietary term in common
use that implies high-quality winemaking. For example,
Sterling, Robert Sinskey Vineyards, Mount Veeder Winery and
Clos Du Val label their Bordeaux blends as "Reserve," and
make them only in years that fully justify use of the term.
A variation on the use of the name of the producing estate
is the use of the name of the vineyard that supplies the
different varietals. This device is used by Ridge ("Monte
Bello"), Clos du Bois ("Marlstone") and Ravenswood ("Pickbury"),
among others.
Duckhorn's New Twist
Perhaps the newest twist is that employed by Duckhorn
Vineyards, which uses the term "Howell Mountain" for its
Bordeaux-style blend. The grapes for the wine come from
several vineyards in this BATF-approved viticultural
appellation, and each year the ideal blend is determined
based on the characteristics of the vintage. For example, in
1989 the blend was 41 percent cabernet sauvignon, 34 percent
merlot and 25 percent cabernet franc, but in 1990, merlot
dominated with 57 percent of the blend, along with 30
percent cabernet sauvignon and 13 percent cabernet franc.
The percentages are always clearly stated on the label.
Recently, the Vintners Club brought together 12 of these
wines for a blind comparative tasting conducted by a panel
of 21 tasters. Because many of these wines are "flagship
wines," they may be held longer at the winery to benefit
from extended bottle age prior to release. Thus, although
many 1993 Cabernet Sauvignons are already in the shops, the
current releases of these special wines span the 1991 and
1992 vintages. Prices ranged from $19 to $75, indicating
that California producers are emulating their Bordeaux
counterparts in pricing, as well as production, practices.
Tasting Notes
FIRST PLACE
1992 J. Stonestreet Legacy, Alexander Valley ($35)
Forward, appealing aromas of mint, cherry-cassis fruit,
cedar, leather, cocoa and toasty, smoky French oak, accented
by a certain warm earthiness. The blend -- 54 percent
cabernet sauvignon, 43 percent merlot, 3 percent petit
verdot -- yields rich, ripe raspberry-cassis flavors mingled
with clove spice and smoky oak; deep, layered and delicious.
Excellent balance and structure, showing medium tannins.
Long, lingering finish. Superior quality.
SECOND PLACE
1991 Ridge Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains ($75)
This is one of California's greatest vineyards, located at
an elevation of 2,600 feet in the Santa Cruz Mountains about
20 miles from the Pacific Ocean. Its wines are long lived,
complex and worth the high price. The 1991 Monte Bello is
mostly cabernet sauvignon (85 percent) blended with 15
percent merlot. Fragrant, inviting scents of black
cherry-cassis fruit, vanilla and green olive lead to a
smooth, lush wine of enormous complexity. The palate offers
deep, plumy cassis-black cherry fruit, roasted coffee,
licorice and clove spice, along with a wild mushroom-like
note. A thoroughly enjoyable wine that is both powerful and
elegant. Superior quality.
THIRD PLACE
1991 Dalle Valle Vineyards Maya, Napa Valley ($75)
This mountain-grown red is every bit as impressive as the
first- and second-place wines, offering deep, fragrant
scents of plumy cassis and wild berry fruit, plus toasty
oak, vanilla and cedar. Exceptionally generous in the mouth,
exhibiting lots of ripe cassis-raspberry-black cherry fruit,
roasted coffee, mint and new oak. Thoroughly delicious and
impressive. The blend is 55 percent cabernet sauvignon, 45
percent cabernet franc and one percent merlot from estate
vineyards above the Silverado Trail. Superior quality.
FOURTH PLACE
1991 Mount Veeder Winery Reserve, Napa Valley ($25)
Restrained, though complex, nose of red cherries, violets
and rose petals, cedar, mint and a hint of black pepper.
Medium-full tannins. Pleasant, sweet cherry-berry fruit with
a spicy note. This blend of mountain-grown cabernet
sauvignon (52 percent), merlot (33 percent), cabernet franc
(12 percent), petit verdot (2 percent) and malbec (one
percent) drinks well now. Above-average quality.
FIFTH PLACE
1992 Opus One, Napa Valley ($60)
Complex, Medoc-like nose of cedar, spice, cassis and cigar
box, along with lots of earthy, mushroomy notes that suggest
some brettanomyces ("brett") which, if viewed positively, is
known as "good barnyard" and, if off-putting, is called
dirty. Full tannins and puckery with just enough black
currant fruit to balance out in cellaring. This
mostly-cabernet-sauvignon blend (8 percent cabernet franc, 3
percent merlot) was very controversial with the panel, with
many finding its quirky elements too extreme to justify the
price, while others found its resemblance to a stylish
French first growth appealing.
SIXTH PLACE
1992 Geyser Peak Reserve Alexandre Meritage, Trione
Vineyards, Alexander Valley ($25)
Intense, appealing scents of cherries, raspberries and
vanilla accompanied by vanillan oak and an intriguing note
of violets. Medium tannins. Deep, ripe, vibrant black
cherry-cassis fruit on the palate, along with cedar and
tobacco-leaf herbaceousness. Silky and elegant. A delicious
blend of merlot (40 percent), cabernet sauvignon (28
percent), petit verdot (22 percent) and five percent each
cabernet franc and malbec. Above-average quality.
SEVENTH PLACE
1992 Joseph Phelps Vineyards Insignia, Napa Valley ($55)
The nose opens with airing to reveal attractive, slightly
dusty, aromas of sweet oak, cedar, cassis and light spice.
Medium-full tannins that will require a few more years to
resolve. Extractive berry-cassis fruit sufficient to match
the tannins, plus cedar and evident oak. Massively
structured and built to age. A very impressive blend of 67
percent cabernet sauvignon and 33 percent merlot.
Above-average quality.
EIGHTH PLACE
1991 Langtry Meritage Red, California (produced by Guenoc
Winery) ($35)
Winegrower and Guenoc Winery owner Orville Magoon was one of
the first vintners in California to recognize the importance
of planting Bordeaux grape varietals for blending. The five
traditional Bordeaux varietals were planted at the Guenoc
estate two decades ago. This blend of 58 percent cabernet
sauvignon, 32 percent cabernet franc, 9 percent petit verdot
and one percent malbec offers attractive, slightly smoky
aromas of ripe black cherries and cassis, plus toasty French
oak. Pleasant bell pepper herbaceousness frames the flavors,
which also offer ripe cherry-cassis fruit and a lingering
aftertaste. Above average quality.
NINTH PLACE
1991 Robert Sinskey Vineyards Carneros Claret Reserve ($28)
The winery produces two clarets, one a
cabernet-sauvignon-dominated blend with a Stags Leap
District appellation, and the other this Carneros Claret
Reserve, which is 59 percent merlot, 22 percent cabernet
sauvignon and 19 percent cabernet franc. Shy red fruits
(strawberry-cherry) and mild herbs in the nose. Soft, medium
tannins. Straightforward bing cherry-raspberry flavors with
moderate depth; smooth. Average quality.
TENTH PLACE
1991 Sterling Reserve, Napa Valley ($30)
A blend of 64 percent cabernet sauvignon, 18 percent merlot,
10 percent cabernet franc and 8 percent petit verdot very
much in the French style, but not as controversial as the
Opus One. Lots of chocolate-like notes in the nose, plus
cedar and red berries. Medium-full tannins will require a
few years of aging to resolve. Slightly tart with extractive
black cherry-cassis fruit and a touch of green herbs.
Average to above-average quality.
ELEVENTH PLACE
1992 Ravenswood Pickbury Vineyard, Sonoma Mountain ($30)
Unusual scents of leather, green bell pepper and black
cherry-cassis fruit that are somewhat musty. Very tannic,
with leather and tobacco leaf dominating the palate,
suggesting brettanomyces. A blend of 65 percent merlot, 30
percent cabernet sauvignon and 5 percent cabernet franc.
Below-average quality.
TWELFTH PLACE
1991 Clos du Bois Marlstone Vineyard, Alexander Valley ($19)
Slightly weedy nose focuses on chocolate or cocoa, toffee,
smoky oak, herbs and shy fruit; some tasters detected an off
smell resembling burnt rubber. Soft and supple in the mouth
with medium tannins, offering cherry-berry fruit, cedar and
shy spice. Lingering aftertaste. A blend of 54 percent
cabernet sauvignon, 35 percent merlot, 6 percent malbec and
5 percent cabernet franc. Average quality.
Steve Pitcher is a freelance wine writer based in San
Francisco. He is vice president of the Vintners Club and
president of the San Francisco Bay Area Chapter of the
German Wine Society.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Note: This information was accurate when it was published.
Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly
with the businesses in question before making your plans.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Share this article with a friend:
Earn a chance to win a free cookbook every week: Get Sally's
eNewsletter!
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Bordeaux winemakers have long known that cabernet sauvignon
makes a better wine when it is the main component in a
blending formula that incorporates other grape varieties to
round out and refine the varietal's naturally forceful
tannins and flavors.
The other Bordeaux varieties -- merlot, cabernet franc,
petit verdot and malbec -- also provide extra layers of
flavor and complexity in the finished wine, which eventually
becomes a product that is greater than the mere sum of its
parts.
Brute Strength Yields to Finesse
The Bordeaux approach didn't really catch on in California
until the 1980s, after a decade of huge, rich, tannic, 100
percent varietal Cabs that often exhibited more oak than
fruit. Eventually, consumers and winemakers agreed that
finesse, depth, complexity and balance were more desirable
than brute strength.
Today, it's a common practice for winemakers to add some
merlot or cabernet franc, or both, to cabernet sauvignon.
And when the winery wants to make a first-class merlot,
cabernet sauvignon and/or cabernet franc will be blended in.
So long as the other varieties constitute no more than 25
percent of the resulting wine, it can be labeled varietally
as cabernet sauvignon or merlot, as the case may be.
But what happens when the winemaker determines that cabernet
sauvignon shouldn't constitute at least 75 percent of the
blend -- that a better wine can be made with, say, just 45
percent cabernet sauvignon blended with 35 percent merlot,
12 percent cabernet franc and eight percent petit verdot?
The answer is that the winemaker adjusts the blending
formula to achieve the desired result, and then sits down
with the marketing people to figure out what to call the
wine. This wouldn't be a problem in Bordeaux, where the wine
is given the name of the estate (or chateau, in French) that
produced it. For example, the blending formula set forth
above is that of Chateau Pichon Lalande, and that's all the
label says.
The Meritage Concept
The California winery has several alternatives for naming
its blend. If the wine is made only from traditional
Bordeaux grape varieties, is the winery's best red wine and
is limited in production to no more than 25,000 cases, it
can be called "Meritage," a coined word that is pronounced
like heritage. Meritage wines are the equivalent of
Bordeaux-style red and white wines, both in terms of grape
varieties and quality. The topic of white proprietary
meritage blends was discussed in an earlier "Vintner's
Choice" column.
On the other hand, even if the wine could be called
Meritage, the winery is free to label it under a proprietary
name that legally may be used only by the particular winery,
such as "Hommage" from Clos Pegase or Joseph Phelps'
"Insignia." Similarly, the proprietary term may be the name
of the estate as is done in Bordeaux, such as "Opus One,"
"Dominus," "Royale" (a new Kendall-Jackson property which
uses both "Royale" and "Meritage" on the label) or
"Pahlmeyer." This marketing device is the most popular
choice among wineries, and there are dozens of these
exotically named wines on the market.
Another alternative is to call the wine "Claret," which is
an old British term that means the same thing as red
Bordeaux blend. This is what White Rock Vineyards in the
Napa Valley calls its Meritage red, which sells for about
$25. On a less inventive level, there's always "Red Table
Wine."
The winery can also employ a non-proprietary term in common
use that implies high-quality winemaking. For example,
Sterling, Robert Sinskey Vineyards, Mount Veeder Winery and
Clos Du Val label their Bordeaux blends as "Reserve," and
make them only in years that fully justify use of the term.
A variation on the use of the name of the producing estate
is the use of the name of the vineyard that supplies the
different varietals. This device is used by Ridge ("Monte
Bello"), Clos du Bois ("Marlstone") and Ravenswood
("Pickbury"), among others.
Duckhorn's New Twist
Perhaps the newest twist is that employed by Duckhorn
Vineyards, which uses the term "Howell Mountain" for its
Bordeaux-style blend. The grapes for the wine come from
several vineyards in this BATF-approved viticultural
appellation, and each year the ideal blend is determined
based on the characteristics of the vintage. For example, in
1989 the blend was 41 percent cabernet sauvignon, 34 percent
merlot and 25 percent cabernet franc, but in 1990, merlot
dominated with 57 percent of the blend, along with 30
percent cabernet sauvignon and 13 percent cabernet franc.
The percentages are always clearly stated on the label.
Recently, the Vintners Club brought together 12 of these
wines for a blind comparative tasting conducted by a panel
of 21 tasters. Because many of these wines are "flagship
wines," they may be held longer at the winery to benefit
from extended bottle age prior to release. Thus, although
many 1993 Cabernet Sauvignons are already in the shops, the
current releases of these special wines span the 1991 and
1992 vintages. Prices ranged from $19 to $75, indicating
that California producers are emulating their Bordeaux
counterparts in pricing, as well as production, practices.
Tasting Notes
FIRST PLACE
1992 J. Stonestreet Legacy, Alexander Valley ($35)
Forward, appealing aromas of mint, cherry-cassis fruit,
cedar, leather, cocoa and toasty, smoky French oak, accented
by a certain warm earthiness. The blend -- 54 percent
cabernet sauvignon, 43 percent merlot, 3 percent petit
verdot -- yields rich, ripe raspberry-cassis flavors mingled
with clove spice and smoky oak; deep, layered and delicious.
Excellent balance and structure, showing medium tannins.
Long, lingering finish. Superior quality.
SECOND PLACE
1991 Ridge Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains ($75)
This is one of California's greatest vineyards, located at
an elevation of 2,600 feet in the Santa Cruz Mountains about
20 miles from the Pacific Ocean. Its wines are long lived,
complex and worth the high price. The 1991 Monte Bello is
mostly cabernet sauvignon (85 percent) blended with 15
percent merlot. Fragrant, inviting scents of black
cherry-cassis fruit, vanilla and green olive lead to a
smooth, lush wine of enormous complexity. The palate offers
deep, plumy cassis-black cherry fruit, roasted coffee,
licorice and clove spice, along with a wild mushroom-like
note. A thoroughly enjoyable wine that is both powerful and
elegant. Superior quality.
THIRD PLACE
1991 Dalle Valle Vineyards Maya, Napa Valley ($75)
This mountain-grown red is every bit as impressive as the
first- and second-place wines, offering deep, fragrant
scents of plumy cassis and wild berry fruit, plus toasty
oak, vanilla and cedar. Exceptionally generous in the mouth,
exhibiting lots of ripe cassis-raspberry-black cherry fruit,
roasted coffee, mint and new oak. Thoroughly delicious and
impressive. The blend is 55 percent cabernet sauvignon, 45
percent cabernet franc and one percent merlot from estate
vineyards above the Silverado Trail. Superior quality.
FOURTH PLACE
1991 Mount Veeder Winery Reserve, Napa Valley ($25)
Restrained, though complex, nose of red cherries, violets
and rose petals, cedar, mint and a hint of black pepper.
Medium-full tannins. Pleasant, sweet cherry-berry fruit with
a spicy note. This blend of mountain-grown cabernet
sauvignon (52 percent), merlot (33 percent), cabernet franc
(12 percent), petit verdot (2 percent) and malbec (one
percent) drinks well now. Above-average quality.
FIFTH PLACE
1992 Opus One, Napa Valley ($60)
Complex, Medoc-like nose of cedar, spice, cassis and cigar
box, along with lots of earthy, mushroomy notes that suggest
some brettanomyces ("brett") which, if viewed positively, is
known as "good barnyard" and, if off-putting, is called
dirty. Full tannins and puckery with just enough black
currant fruit to balance out in cellaring. This
mostly-cabernet-sauvignon blend (8 percent cabernet franc, 3
percent merlot) was very controversial with the panel, with
many finding its quirky elements too extreme to justify the
price, while others found its resemblance to a stylish
French first growth appealing.
SIXTH PLACE
1992 Geyser Peak Reserve Alexandre Meritage, Trione
Vineyards, Alexander Valley ($25)
Intense, appealing scents of cherries, raspberries and
vanilla accompanied by vanillan oak and an intriguing note
of violets. Medium tannins. Deep, ripe, vibrant black
cherry-cassis fruit on the palate, along with cedar and
tobacco-leaf herbaceousness. Silky and elegant. A delicious
blend of merlot (40 percent), cabernet sauvignon (28
percent), petit verdot (22 percent) and five percent each
cabernet franc and malbec. Above-average quality.
SEVENTH PLACE
1992 Joseph Phelps Vineyards Insignia, Napa Valley ($55)
The nose opens with airing to reveal attractive, slightly
dusty, aromas of sweet oak, cedar, cassis and light spice.
Medium-full tannins that will require a few more years to
resolve. Extractive berry-cassis fruit sufficient to match
the tannins, plus cedar and evident oak. Massively
structured and built to age. A very impressive blend of 67
percent cabernet sauvignon and 33 percent merlot.
Above-average quality.
EIGHTH PLACE
1991 Langtry Meritage Red, California (produced by Guenoc
Winery) ($35)
Winegrower and Guenoc Winery owner Orville Magoon was one of
the first vintners in California to recognize the importance
of planting Bordeaux grape varietals for blending. The five
traditional Bordeaux varietals were planted at the Guenoc
estate two decades ago. This blend of 58 percent cabernet
sauvignon, 32 percent cabernet franc, 9 percent petit verdot
and one percent malbec offers attractive, slightly smoky
aromas of ripe black cherries and cassis, plus toasty French
oak. Pleasant bell pepper herbaceousness frames the flavors,
which also offer ripe cherry-cassis fruit and a lingering
aftertaste. Above average quality.
NINTH PLACE
1991 Robert Sinskey Vineyards Carneros Claret Reserve ($28)
The winery produces two clarets, one a
cabernet-sauvignon-dominated blend with a Stags Leap
District appellation, and the other this Carneros Claret
Reserve, which is 59 percent merlot, 22 percent cabernet
sauvignon and 19 percent cabernet franc. Shy red fruits
(strawberry-cherry) and mild herbs in the nose. Soft, medium
tannins. Straightforward bing cherry-raspberry flavors with
moderate depth; smooth. Average quality.
TENTH PLACE
1991 Sterling Reserve, Napa Valley ($30)
A blend of 64 percent cabernet sauvignon, 18 percent merlot,
10 percent cabernet franc and 8 percent petit verdot very
much in the French style, but not as controversial as the
Opus One. Lots of chocolate-like notes in the nose, plus
cedar and red berries. Medium-full tannins will require a
few years of aging to resolve. Slightly tart with extractive
black cherry-cassis fruit and a touch of green herbs.
Average to above-average quality.
ELEVENTH PLACE
1992 Ravenswood Pickbury Vineyard, Sonoma Mountain ($30)
Unusual scents of leather, green bell pepper and black
cherry-cassis fruit that are somewhat musty. Very tannic,
with leather and tobacco leaf dominating the palate,
suggesting brettanomyces. A blend of 65 percent merlot, 30
percent cabernet sauvignon and 5 percent cabernet franc.
Below-average quality.
TWELFTH PLACE
1991 Clos du Bois Marlstone Vineyard, Alexander Valley ($19)
Slightly weedy nose focuses on chocolate or cocoa, toffee,
smoky oak, herbs and shy fruit; some tasters detected an off
smell resembling burnt rubber. Soft and supple in the mouth
with medium tannins, offering cherry-berry fruit, cedar and
shy spice. Lingering aftertaste. A blend of 54 percent
cabernet sauvignon, 35 percent merlot, 6 percent malbec and
5 percent cabernet franc. Average quality.
Steve Pitcher is a freelance wine writer based in San
Francisco. He is vice president of the Vintners Club and
president of the San Francisco Bay Area Chapter of the
German Wine Society.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Note: This information was accurate when it was published.
Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly
with the businesses in question before making your plans.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Share this article with a friend:
Earn a chance to win a free cookbook every week: Get Sally's
eNewsletter!
Search for something else:
Advertise With Us
Special Offers Below
La Tienda: The Best of Spain
Dennen's Victorian Farmhouse
Mendocino B&B
Adopt a Truffle Tree
Food411 Food Directory
Joshua Grindle Inn, Mendocino
Bordeaux winemakers have long known that cabernet sauvignon
makes a better wine when it is the main component in a
blending formula that incorporates other grape varieties to
round out and refine the varietal's naturally forceful
tannins and flavors.
The other Bordeaux varieties -- merlot, cabernet franc,
petit verdot and malbec -- also provide extra layers of
flavor and complexity in the finished wine, which eventually
becomes a product that is greater than the mere sum of its
parts.
Brute Strength Yields to Finesse
The Bordeaux approach didn't really catch on in California
until the 1980s, after a decade of huge, rich, tannic, 100
percent varietal Cabs that often exhibited more oak than
fruit. Eventually, consumers and winemakers agreed that
finesse, depth, complexity and balance were more desirable
than brute strength.
Today, it's a common practice for winemakers to add some
merlot or cabernet franc, or both, to cabernet sauvignon.
And when the winery wants to make a first-class merlot,
cabernet sauvignon and/or cabernet franc will be blended in.
So long as the other varieties constitute no more than 25
percent of the resulting wine, it can be labeled varietally
as cabernet sauvignon or merlot, as the case may be.
But what happens when the winemaker determines that cabernet
sauvignon shouldn't constitute at least 75 percent of the
blend -- that a better wine can be made with, say, just 45
percent cabernet sauvignon blended with 35 percent merlot,
12 percent cabernet franc and eight percent petit verdot?
The answer is that the winemaker adjusts the blending
formula to achieve the desired result, and then sits down
with the marketing people to figure out what to call the
wine. This wouldn't be a problem in Bordeaux, where the wine
is given the name of the estate (or chateau, in French) that
produced it. For example, the blending formula set forth
above is that of Chateau Pichon Lalande, and that's all the
label says.
The Meritage Concept
The California winery has several alternatives for naming
its blend. If the wine is made only from traditional
Bordeaux grape varieties, is the winery's best red wine and
is limited in production to no more than 25,000 cases, it
can be called "Meritage," a coined word that is pronounced
like heritage. Meritage wines are the equivalent of
Bordeaux-style red and white wines, both in terms of grape
varieties and quality. The topic of white proprietary
meritage blends was discussed in an earlier "Vintner's
Choice" column.
On the other hand, even if the wine could be called
Meritage, the winery is free to label it under a proprietary
name that legally may be used only by the particular winery,
such as "Hommage" from Clos Pegase or Joseph Phelps'
"Insignia." Similarly, the proprietary term may be the name
of the estate as is done in Bordeaux, such as "Opus One,"
"Dominus," "Royale" (a new Kendall-Jackson property which
uses both "Royale" and "Meritage" on the label) or
"Pahlmeyer." This marketing device is the most popular
choice among wineries, and there are dozens of these
exotically named wines on the market.
Another alternative is to call the wine "Claret," which is
an old British term that means the same thing as red
Bordeaux blend. This is what White Rock Vineyards in the
Napa Valley calls its Meritage red, which sells for about
$25. On a less inventive level, there's always "Red Table
Wine."
The winery can also employ a non-proprietary term in common
use that implies high-quality winemaking. For example,
Sterling, Robert Sinskey Vineyards, Mount Veeder Winery and
Clos Du Val label their Bordeaux blends as "Reserve," and
make them only in years that fully justify use of the term.
A variation on the use of the name of the producing estate
is the use of the name of the vineyard that supplies the
different varietals. This device is used by Ridge ("Monte
Bello"), Clos du Bois ("Marlstone") and Ravenswood
("Pickbury"), among others.
Duckhorn's New Twist
Perhaps the newest twist is that employed by Duckhorn
Vineyards, which uses the term "Howell Mountain" for its
Bordeaux-style blend. The grapes for the wine come from
several vineyards in this BATF-approved viticultural
appellation, and each year the ideal blend is determined
based on the characteristics of the vintage. For example, in
1989 the blend was 41 percent cabernet sauvignon, 34 percent
merlot and 25 percent cabernet franc, but in 1990, merlot
dominated with 57 percent of the blend, along with 30
percent cabernet sauvignon and 13 percent cabernet franc.
The percentages are always clearly stated on the label.
Recently, the Vintners Club brought together 12 of these
wines for a blind comparative tasting conducted by a panel
of 21 tasters. Because many of these wines are "flagship
wines," they may be held longer at the winery to benefit
from extended bottle age prior to release. Thus, although
many 1993 Cabernet Sauvignons are already in the shops, the
current releases of these special wines span the 1991 and
1992 vintages. Prices ranged from $19 to $75, indicating
that California producers are emulating their Bordeaux
counterparts in pricing, as well as production, practices.
Tasting Notes
FIRST PLACE
1992 J. Stonestreet Legacy, Alexander Valley ($35)
Forward, appealing aromas of mint, cherry-cassis fruit,
cedar, leather, cocoa and toasty, smoky French oak, accented
by a certain warm earthiness. The blend -- 54 percent
cabernet sauvignon, 43 percent merlot, 3 percent petit
verdot -- yields rich, ripe raspberry-cassis flavors mingled
with clove spice and smoky oak; deep, layered and delicious.
Excellent balance and structure, showing medium tannins.
Long, lingering finish. Superior quality.
SECOND PLACE
1991 Ridge Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains ($75)
This is one of California's greatest vineyards, located at
an elevation of 2,600 feet in the Santa Cruz Mountains about
20 miles from the Pacific Ocean. Its wines are long lived,
complex and worth the high price. The 1991 Monte Bello is
mostly cabernet sauvignon (85 percent) blended with 15
percent merlot. Fragrant, inviting scents of black
cherry-cassis fruit, vanilla and green olive lead to a
smooth, lush wine of enormous complexity. The palate offers
deep, plumy cassis-black cherry fruit, roasted coffee,
licorice and clove spice, along with a wild mushroom-like
note. A thoroughly enjoyable wine that is both powerful and
elegant. Superior quality.
THIRD PLACE
1991 Dalle Valle Vineyards Maya, Napa Valley ($75)
This mountain-grown red is every bit as impressive as the
first- and second-place wines, offering deep, fragrant
scents of plumy cassis and wild berry fruit, plus toasty
oak, vanilla and cedar. Exceptionally generous in the mouth,
exhibiting lots of ripe cassis-raspberry-black cherry fruit,
roasted coffee, mint and new oak. Thoroughly delicious and
impressive. The blend is 55 percent cabernet sauvignon, 45
percent cabernet franc and one percent merlot from estate
vineyards above the Silverado Trail. Superior quality.
FOURTH PLACE
1991 Mount Veeder Winery Reserve, Napa Valley ($25)
Restrained, though complex, nose of red cherries, violets
and rose petals, cedar, mint and a hint of black pepper.
Medium-full tannins. Pleasant, sweet cherry-berry fruit with
a spicy note. This blend of mountain-grown cabernet
sauvignon (52 percent), merlot (33 percent), cabernet franc
(12 percent), petit verdot (2 percent) and malbec (one
percent) drinks well now. Above-average quality.
FIFTH PLACE
1992 Opus One, Napa Valley ($60)
Complex, Medoc-like nose of cedar, spice, cassis and cigar
box, along with lots of earthy, mushroomy notes that suggest
some brettanomyces ("brett") which, if viewed positively, is
known as "good barnyard" and, if off-putting, is called
dirty. Full tannins and puckery with just enough black
currant fruit to balance out in cellaring. This
mostly-cabernet-sauvignon blend (8 percent cabernet franc, 3
percent merlot) was very controversial with the panel, with
many finding its quirky elements too extreme to justify the
price, while others found its resemblance to a stylish
French first growth appealing.
SIXTH PLACE
1992 Geyser Peak Reserve Alexandre Meritage, Trione
Vineyards, Alexander Valley ($25)
Intense, appealing scents of cherries, raspberries and
vanilla accompanied by vanillan oak and an intriguing note
of violets. Medium tannins. Deep, ripe, vibrant black
cherry-cassis fruit on the palate, along with cedar and
tobacco-leaf herbaceousness. Silky and elegant. A delicious
blend of merlot (40 percent), cabernet sauvignon (28
percent), petit verdot (22 percent) and five percent each
cabernet franc and malbec. Above-average quality.
SEVENTH PLACE
1992 Joseph Phelps Vineyards Insignia, Napa Valley ($55)
The nose opens with airing to reveal attractive, slightly
dusty, aromas of sweet oak, cedar, cassis and light spice.
Medium-full tannins that will require a few more years to
resolve. Extractive berry-cassis fruit sufficient to match
the tannins, plus cedar and evident oak. Massively
structured and built to age. A very impressive blend of 67
percent cabernet sauvignon and 33 percent merlot.
Above-average quality.
EIGHTH PLACE
1991 Langtry Meritage Red, California (produced by Guenoc
Winery) ($35)
Winegrower and Guenoc Winery owner Orville Magoon was one of
the first vintners in California to recognize the importance
of planting Bordeaux grape varietals for blending. The five
traditional Bordeaux varietals were planted at the Guenoc
estate two decades ago. This blend of 58 percent cabernet
sauvignon, 32 percent cabernet franc, 9 percent petit verdot
and one percent malbec offers attractive, slightly smoky
aromas of ripe black cherries and cassis, plus toasty French
oak. Pleasant bell pepper herbaceousness frames the flavors,
which also offer ripe cherry-cassis fruit and a lingering
aftertaste. Above average quality.
NINTH PLACE
1991 Robert Sinskey Vineyards Carneros Claret Reserve ($28)
The winery produces two clarets, one a
cabernet-sauvignon-dominated blend with a Stags Leap
District appellation, and the other this Carneros Claret
Reserve, which is 59 percent merlot, 22 percent cabernet
sauvignon and 19 percent cabernet franc. Shy red fruits
(strawberry-cherry) and mild herbs in the nose. Soft, medium
tannins. Straightforward bing cherry-raspberry flavors with
moderate depth; smooth. Average quality.
TENTH PLACE
1991 Sterling Reserve, Napa Valley ($30)
A blend of 64 percent cabernet sauvignon, 18 percent merlot,
10 percent cabernet franc and 8 percent petit verdot very
much in the French style, but not as controversial as the
Opus One. Lots of chocolate-like notes in the nose, plus
cedar and red berries. Medium-full tannins will require a
few years of aging to resolve. Slightly tart with extractive
black cherry-cassis fruit and a touch of green herbs.
Average to above-average quality.
ELEVENTH PLACE
1992 Ravenswood Pickbury Vineyard, Sonoma Mountain ($30)
Unusual scents of leather, green bell pepper and black
cherry-cassis fruit that are somewhat musty. Very tannic,
with leather and tobacco leaf dominating the palate,
suggesting brettanomyces. A blend of 65 percent merlot, 30
percent cabernet sauvignon and 5 percent cabernet franc.
Below-average quality.
TWELFTH PLACE
1991 Clos du Bois Marlstone Vineyard, Alexander Valley ($19)
Slightly weedy nose focuses on chocolate or cocoa, toffee,
smoky oak, herbs and shy fruit; some tasters detected an off
smell resembling burnt rubber. Soft and supple in the mouth
with medium tannins, offering cherry-berry fruit, cedar and
shy spice. Lingering aftertaste. A blend of 54 percent
cabernet sauvignon, 35 percent merlot, 6 percent malbec and
5 percent cabernet franc. Average quality
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